Dispersion (water waves) - Wikipedia
WEBLearn how water waves of different wavelengths and amplitudes travel at different speeds due to frequency and amplitude dispersion. See the dispersion relation, phase and group velocity, and examples of gravity and capillary waves.
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Water Waves - MIT
WEBLearn about the theory and analysis of water waves in different depths and wavelengths. See the equations, solutions, and diagrams for potential, free surface, and dynamic boundary conditions.
WEBChapter 6 - Water Waves. 6.1 Exact (Nonlinear) Governing Equations for Surface Gravity Waves, Assuming Potential Flow. Free surface definition. ( x , z , t ) or F ( x , y. , z , t ) 0. = η. y. x. z. B(x , y, z,t) = 0. Unknown variables. Velocity field: v (x, y, z, t) = ∇φ (x, y, z, t) Position of free surface: y = η (x, z, t) or F (x, y, z, t) = 0.
Wave equation - Wikipedia
WEBThe wave equation is a partial differential equation for describing waves or standing wave fields in classical physics. Learn how it is derived from Hooke's law or the string vibration, and how it can be solved by sinusoidal plane waves or boundary conditions.
Shallow-water wave theory - Coastal Wiki
WEBLearn about the generation, characteristics and transformation of ocean waves using linear wave theory. Find the formula for wave celerity and other wave parameters in shallow water.
WEBWAVES IN WATER. 1 Governing equations for waves on the sea surface. In this chapter we shall model the water as an inviscid and incompressible fluid, and consider waves of infinitesimal amplitude so that the linearized approximation suffices.
10.1 Wave Basics – Introduction to Oceanography
WEBLearn about the different types of waves in the ocean, their components, and how they move. Find out why waves move more slowly in deep water than in shallow water, and how to calculate their speed.
47 Sound. The wave equation - The Feynman Lectures on Physics
WEBThe wave equation. 47–1 Waves. In this chapter we shall discuss the phenomenon of waves.
WEBLearn the shallow water equations that describe the dynamics of a hydrostatic, homogeneous fluid layer and the inertia-gravity waves that propagate on it. See the dispersion relations and the numerical models for different grid arrangements.
WEBLearn how to solve the wave equation ∂2u ∂t2 = c2 ∂2u ∂x2 for various physical phenomena, such as sound, blood flow and shallow water waves. See examples, formulas and diagrams for different initial conditions and boundary values.